Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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A BEAUTIFUL BRAIN
London: Although Scottish designer Christopher Kane did not take the helm at Balenciaga as originally rumored on Twitter last year, a new partnership with PPR has already strengthened his eponymous brand. Confidently switching gears each season, Kane’s collections are always exciting and original, which for F/W 13 meant a dark, graphic exploration of camouflage, military detailing and dynamic embellishments, quite the opposite of Spring’s pastel pop. Smooth satin gave a flattened look to camo kilts, a-line minidresses and overcoats fastened with chunky leather buckle straps, a closure repeated on wavy guipure lace pieces. From there Kane piled on the texture, moving from velvet dresses stitched together with crochet panels, to Sergeant Pepper embroidery, feather body-mapping, flowers, layered rectangles, metallic tinsel and even sliced brain-scan graphics. Somehow, through all of this, collection landed just short of overblown, a testament to the captivating nature of such an inventive fashion mind.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Cropped / Oversized / Boxy / A-line / Off-the-shoulder / Slim
Color: Black / Concrete / Vibrant pool-blue / Navy / Silver / White / Burgundy / Pumpkin
Key Items: Refined bomber jackets / Buckled military overcoats / Kilts / Pleated miniskirts / Wavy lace dresses / Velvet cutout cocktail frocks / Sheer embroidered organza dresses / Full satin trousers / Feathery tinsel mini dresses / Graphic satin sheaths / Off-the-shoulder dresses
Materials: Multidimensional furs / Wool / Velvet / Crochet / Organza / Jacquard / Ribbed knits / Satin / Leather / Guipure lace / Tulle / Feathers
Print + Pattern: Graphic camouflage / Concentric circles / Wavy lines / Floral motifs / Rectangles / Brain scan slices
Details + Trim: Fur trim / Contrast leather straps and buckles / Feather trim / Crochet panels / Tinsel / Dropped shoulders / Pom-poms / Crystals / Box pleats / Rolled hems / Leather lapels / Wavy embroidery / Cutouts / Floral motif fealthers
Accessories + Footwear: Platform mary-janes / Flat ankle boots / High heeled platform ankle boots with sheer mesh panels
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