May 24, 2018 | By Lourdes Linares
Jul 01, 2013
By WGSN Insider
Photo by Gonzalo Fuentes / Reuters
Christian Lacroix debuted the first Schiaparelli Haute Couture collection today in Paris for the F/W 13 season at Les Arts Décoratifs, following a 59+ year absence since the storied house’s closing in 1954, and seven years after Diego della Valle purchased the Schiaparelli trademark and archive in the mid-2000s. The first in a series of “interpretations” by designers and creative figures, the 18-piece collection will be on display through Haute Couture Fashion Week (through July 3rd) by invitation only and thereafter by appointment at the original Schiaparelli salons on Place Vendôme.
Though the pieces will not be available at retail, there was much to covet in this inaugural effort, which revealed an evident synergy between the late Schiaparelli and Lacroix himself. Mannequins posed on shocking! pink carpeting – a hue carried through in the whimsical fur accessories – in sumptuous draped gowns, nipped jackets, and ornately embroidered coats and capes that nodded as much to Schiaparelli’s embellished tailoring of the ’30s as they did Lacroix’s own couture at the height of his success, in the late ’80s and early ’90s. A lavish sense of color- another shared trait between the two designers – reigned supreme, and opulent textures featured prominently from monkey fur footwear to feathered headwear and passementerie-adorned taffeta.
Though Marco Zanini of Rochas is rumored to take the helm as Creative Director, Lacroix has left big shoes to fill for the subsequent Schiaparelli “interpreters” – here’s hoping the next collection proves just as enticing. Until then, a sampling of looks from this stunning revival of a major 20th century house.
Photos courtesy of NowFashion.com
Know what’s next. Become a WGSN member today to benefit from our daily trend intelligence, retail analytics, consumer insights and bespoke consultancy services.