Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Paris: Though this is just his fifth collection for Christian Dior, creative director Raf Simons has been responsible for many a swoon for his elegant designs for the label. Fashion followers should prepare their fainting couches once again, as Simons’ fall collection was his most soigné yet. The designer reprised the elegant gathering and buoyant silhouettes that have characterized his previous offerings, and he also included classic Dior items, such as the Bar jacket. What set this show apart were the graphics. Simons included vintage-inspired illustrations of shoes, flowers, and gloved hands, as well as surrealist eyes. There were numerous interpretations of the houndstooth pattern, as well. One of the most interesting was an intarsia knit ensemble in eye-catching black and white. Though the patterns and graphics stood out, they did not overshadow the thoughtfulness of the designs. Expert draping, artisanal piecing, and feminine peplums made these gorgeous clothes intensely desirable, and the motifs only added to their appeal. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Soft volume / Cylindrical / Asymmetrical / Constructed hourglass / Tent / Fit-and-flare / Peplum
Color: Black / Pure white / Navy / Heather grey / Blush / Lipstick red / Royal blue / Indigo
Key Items: Gathered skirts / Graphic dresses / Bar jacket pantsuits / Tent coats / Houndstooth intarsia knits
Materials: Matte wool crepe / Menswear suitings / Crisp silks / Fluid charmeuse / Medium-gauge yarns / Chiffon / Lacquered tweed / Iridescent taffeta / Leather / Jacquard / Shaved fur / Curly fur
Print + Pattern: Variations on houndstooth / Surrealist eyes / Vintage-inspired illustrations
Details + Trim: Gathering and draping / Peplums / Tie necks / Piecing / Contrast lining / Floral appliqués / Illusion hemlines / Jewel embellishments
Accessories + Footwear: Single jeweled earrings / Envelope clutches / Ladylike boxy bags / Ankle-strap pumps / Embroidered pointy-toe boots / T-strap heels
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