May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Raf Simons’s first two collections for Christian Dior have elicited swoons, raves, and hyperbolic statements from the fashion community, and it seems he may have another hit on his hands. For Pre-Fall, the designer attempted to define what he called the “new classics.” These included both Dior signatures, such as the Bar jacket, and Simons’s own contributions, including asymmetrical cocktail tops. The extended flanges of fabric that he debuted for spring made a welcome comeback. Fits were looser and more forgiving, as the designer strove to accommodate “a lot of different body types.” Larger proportions for pants felt especially fresh, and an easy A-line silhouette appeared throughout. Though the items were decidedly feminine, Simons chose to play with menswear fabrics and patterns. Houndstooths and Prince of Wales checks were used for a range of eye-catching separates. Were they a nod to his roots in menswear? Either way, they made for exciting, wearable, and, yes, classic pieces.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Slouchy / Long over long / Asymmetrical / A-line / Bell-shaped / Boxy
Color: Navy / Pure white / Charcoal / Bottle green / Olive / Black / Lemon / Aqua / Lipstick red / Melon / Lilac
Key Items: Slouchy pantsuits / Asymmetrical cocktail top / Houndstooth and checked separates
Materials: Menswear suitings / Taffeta / Luxe wool suitings / Shantung / Charmeuse / Plush fur / Tweed / Jacquard / Panne velvet / Chiffon / Tulle embroidered with cashmere yarns / Japanese denim / Moiré
Print + Pattern: Houndstooth / Prince of Wales checks / Oversized florals / Horizontal stripes
Details + Trim: Asymmetrical sashes / Laser cutouts / Contrast trim / Gathering / Tiers / Asymmetrical hemlines / Flap pockets
Accessories + Footwear: Single pearl earrings / Printed scarves / Elaborate beaded necklaces and bracelets / Chunky single-jewel bangles / Cocktail rings / Leather gloves / Envelope clutches / Boxy bags / Pointy-toe pumps / Ankle-strap peep-toes / Booties
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