9 hours ago | By Nigel Taylor
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A TRIUMPHANT DEBUT
Paris: After his couture collection for Christian Dior received rave reviews, fashion followers anxiously anticipated Raf Simons’ first ready-to-wear offering for the label. The combination of Simons’ own vocabulary mixed with that of the venerable house made for a challenging and supremely beautiful collection. Like the couture show, his spring outing opened with variations on the classic Bar jacket. Simons then introduced an iridescent organza that would reappear throughout the show. It was reminiscent of the material Christopher Bailey used at Burberry Prorsum, but Simons’ handling of it was loose and organic, where Bailey wrestled it into submission. Wide stripes and outsized volumes gave the collection a youthful allure. There were plenty of serious lace and tulle dresses, but the overall feeling was one of optimism and freshness. Simons closed the show with a riff on his own work; the iridescent floral full skirts recalled those he presented in his seminal S/S 2011 collection for Jil Sander. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Bell-shaped / A-line / Asymmetrical
Color: Black / Ivory / Pale yellow / Mint / Pastel pink / Periwinkle / Grey / Bright orange / Lipstick red / Lemon yellow / Saturated pink / Neon green / Navy
Key Items: Tailored pantsuits / Full ball skirts / Bar jackets / Iridescent cocktail tops / Striped A-line dresses
Materials: Smooth wool suitings / Iridescent organza / Taffeta / Satin / Lace / Tulle / Double-faced silk crepe / Laser-cut leather
Print + Pattern: Wide stripes / Vintage florals
Details + Trim: Double-breasted closures / Contrast lapels / Draping and wrapping / Accordion pleats / Veiling / Sequins / Flower appliqués / Laser cutouts / Beading / Piecing
Accessories + Footwear: Solid neck scarves / Veils / Contrast brow sunglasses / Chokers / Metal cuffs / Gold belts / Minaudieres / Ladylike structured bags / Pointy-toe pumps / Strappy sandals / Pointy-toe Mary Janes
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