May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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WORTH THE WAIT
Paris: After an excruciating wait for the reveal of John Galliano’s successor at Dior, the announcement of Raf Simons was thrilling. Simons has been producing some of the most intellectual, influential and emotional collections in recent years, at his own label and then at Jil Sander. But Simons has his own very strong voice, and insiders wondered how he would negotiate being true to his own vision and honoring the hallowed house of Dior. The answer – with incredible grace and beauty. The first look in the collection was the perfect example of Simons’ harmonizing his minimalist aesthetic with Dior’s history – a variation on the Dior signature Bar jacket paired with austere cropped cigarette pants, all in chic black. More flamboyant pieces were added to the mix, including embellished ball gowns lopped off at the hip to become peplum tops, dyed fur dresses and skirts, and a white and cream strapless gown covered entirely with feathers. Simons mixed in pieces that recalled his emotional final collection at Sander – two strapless dresses in the same shade of pastel pink and a belt red coat with oversized hip pockets. They mixed seamlessly with the other looks. The collection was a triumph, and fashion followers are already waiting impatiently to see what Simons will do for S/S 13. It will surely be worth the wait. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Fit-and-flare / Drop-waisted / Columnar
Color: White / Cream / Lipstick red / Soft pink / Charcoal / Lime / Magenta / Navy / Chartreuse / Black
Key Items: Bar jackets / Cropped cigarette pants / Embellished peplum tunics / Strapless gowns
Materials: Wool suitings / Wool for outerwear / Spongy silk / Taffeta / Fur / Ultra-fine jersey / Mesh
Print + Pattern: Tie-dye / Thick horizontal stripes
Details + Trim: Peplums / Oversized pockets / Beading / Jewel and flower embellishments / Feathers / Bustier details
Accessories + Footwear: Jeweled or pearl chokers / Pearl cuffs / Jeweled cuffs / Oversized gem rings / Patent belts / Opera-length gloves / Pointy-toe pumps
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