Paris: Hannah MacGibbon’s first collections for Chloé were all about scalloped edges, tiers and femininity, but she has steadily pared things down over the past few seasons, ending up with a minimalist aesthetic. This season’s looks were spare and somewhat severe, lacking the textured fabrics and warmth of her past collections. Angular jackets were collarless and often had hidden closures, and no-nonsense turtlenecks were scuba-tight. A touch of leather added a luxe sheen to the mostly matte looks, and accordion pleats and gathering gave the pieces a sense of movement. Elastic waists for short-shorts and track pants were a utilitarian touch. MacGibbon mostly stuck with her signature palette of cream, brown and shades of tan, but crisp white cotton shirtdresses and separates brightened it up. Floaty pleated sheer skirts and dresses had a dancer’s elegance, and simple ballet flats supplemented the reference. While the pared-down basics were appealing in their simplicity, it would have been nice to see MacGibbon loosen up in this season of ebullience and optimism.

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