May 07, 2018 | By Lizzy Bowring
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SHADOWS OF A MASTER
London: Rather than join the bandwagon of designers who have been directly referencing the legacy of Yves Saint Laurent since the Petit Palais Museum’s 2010 retrospective, Anastase explored the naïve charm of 1970s Paris. In doing so, he inevitably hit upon various YSL innovations (trapezoid peacoats, flared trouser suits, crocodile motorcycle jackets etc.) but avoided presenting an homage. Although the Peter-Pan collars and black velvet dresses with transparent inserts had a Belle du Jour sensibility about them, Anastase’s knee-length washed silk dresses would better suit L7 bass player Jennifer Finch than Catherine Deneuve. The designer updated YSL’s famous Russian-inspired coats of 1976 by removing the sleeves, lining, and decoration to form a pared-down yet versatile cover-up in gray wool. Pieces such as sheer, lurex dresses and silk jumpsuits buttoned up the back old school style, but were paired with vertiginous platform wedges. In a final twist of old guard vs. new, the show closed with a pair of simple, loose-fitting gowns made of duchesse satin sourced from London’s haute couturier supplier Laurent Garrigue.
Color: Burnt Orange / Rust / Carmine Pink / Eggplant / Golden Brown / Cream / Pale Gold / Midnight Black
Key Items: Flared trousers / Double breasted tweed coats / Tweed suits / Girlish dresses / Sheer blouses
Materials: Scottish tweed / Heavy satin / Velvet / Crocodile embossed leather / Washed silk
Print + Pattern: Oversized horse print / Embroidered clover leaves / Metal pailettes
Details + Trim: Peter-Pan collars / Shrunken silhouettes / Self-covered buttons / Ruffled and jeweled collars / Oversize buttons / Scalloped hems
Accessories + Footwear: High leather and pony skin platform wedge boots / Ankle length and thigh high / Shades of black, burgundy, purple and brown
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