Chanel Pre-Fall 2016: The ‘Film Noir’ set in Paris in Rome
By Lizzy Bowring

WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring shares her review of the collection and highlights the key items

Dec 02, 2015
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Karl Lagerfeld’s Chanel runway sets always cause a stir and as the excitement starts to build around Pre-Fall collections, Chanel kicks things off with their new collection, which is already creating a social media buzz.

ROME: “I didn’t know when we started the idea of Paris in Rome that it would be the best moment to show a perfect, romantic Paris when Paris today in reality is the opposite of a romantic city,” Lagerfeld said during a preview of his latest Métiers d’Art collection. Tuesday evening’s extravaganza was profoundly played out at the Cinecittà film studio, created to resemble an ideal Paris neighbourhood complete with a Parisian bakery, an oyster bar and cave à vin! The set emulated those of Marcel Carné’s films from the 30’s and 60’s and within which played out a fashion show like no other, perhaps also giving rise to the predominantly monochromatic colour palette.

There was an underlying late 60’s erotica that pervaded the collection in lingerie details, lace stockings, fingerless gloves, and beehive hairdos! For all of this, there was still the sharp discipline in mannish overcoats draped nonchalantly over shoulders and worn over the little flirtatious lace slip dresses, and sexy leather mini dresses. While the Chanel suits were cut in nubby textiles and generous proportions. Kristen Stewart remarked that Lagerfeld always manages to deliver “what resonates emotionally with people,” – Lizzy Bowring

Theme: The ‘Film Noir” set in Paris in Rome

Key Items: “Palazzo Pyjamas”, Wide leg trousers, Slip dresses, Leather pencil skirts, Capelets, Peacoats, Gossamer pleated skirts, Bejewelled crewnecks, Peacoat, Oversized sweaters, Edwardian style long dresses

Colour: Black, White, Purple, Pink salmon,

Print and Pattern: Checks, 3-D jewel encrusted florals, Prince of Wales checks

Trims and Materials: Ostrich feathers, Tweeds, Boucle, Leather, Lace, Leather quilting,

Footwear and Accessories: Acrylic shoulder bag in the shape of a movie camera, 2-tone Mule with snake entwined pearl heel, All-weather boots, Long pearl strands, Pearl encrusted mules, Lace stockings.

 

For a full, in-depth daily report on the collections, head to WGSN to subscribe


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