Paris: A giant faux glacier was the centerpiece for Karl Lagerfeld’s latest collection for Chanel, indicating an Eskimo-chic theme and yet another of his exotic journeys. Models stalked around the glacier in furry boots that protected them from the inch of water that covered the set. The clothing echoed the arctic inspirations: fur was used for nearly all of the looks, whether for trims and cuffs for suits and sheath dresses, for luxurious coats with knit pockets, or for wide-leg pants. While fur pants may be ill-advised and unflattering, rich pelts enhanced the sophistication of the signature tweed suiting pieces, validating the Chanel-goes-to-the-North-Pole theme. The constructed bell silhouettes of last season were whittled down to subtle A-lines and hourglass shapes. Standout tweed items featured raw edges and trailing yarns; their deconstructed feel is certain to resonate with the new generation of Chanel followers. As with many of his exotic theme-y shows, some of Lagerfeld’s ideas fell flat, but his hits had the irresistible quality that has made his work for Chanel so iconic.

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