Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: For this season’s Grand Palais spectacular, Karl Lagerfeld had the whole world brought in – well, a wooden replica of it, that is, with glowing dots that represented major cities and red flags that denoted each of the 300 Chanel stores worldwide. He pronounced that his theme was “globalization”, a business-y buzzword that has many implications, including homogenization and innovation. Lagerfeld seemed to incorporate these concepts into his epic 80-look collection. He pointed to globalization’s futuristic associations in the first series of looks, elegant wool coats with a squared-off notch cut out of the front. He also introduced the show’s quirky hat, a fur number in the shape of a bob haircut (perhaps a cheeky nod to Anna Wintour?). The silhouette du jour – slightly rounded shoulders, slim body, dropped A-line – quickly became apparent and was used for nearly every look with few exceptions, an example of uniformity. But rich, textured tweeds and luxe embellishments kept it from getting tedious. Though this show broke no boundaries to speak of, the clothes embodied the sophistication and timelessness that Lagerfeld’s international club of followers have come to expect. They’ll be a global success. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Oversized / Rounded shoulders / A-line / Tent / Hourglass / Dropped waist / Columnar
Color: Black / Navy / Charcoal / Optic white / Periwinkle / Cobalt / Yves Klein blue / Dark teal / Carnation / Poppy / Magenta / Lime / Red / Kelly green / Blush / Anthracite / Cream
Key Items: Oversized coats with front cutouts / Tweed tunics / Short A-line skirts / Boxy jackets / Drop-waisted dresses
Materials: Tweeds in a wide range of tones and textures / Wool twill / Medium-gauge marled yarns / Lacquered leather / Denim / Felted wool / Jacquard / Crisp cotton / Airy silks / Organza
Print + Pattern: Wide stripes / Flags / Abstract shapes / Futuristic geometrics
Details + Trim: Rectangular cutouts / Funnel necks / Hoods / Boxy pleats / Crumpled chiffon trim / Lacquered leather trim / Feathers / Fringe / Jewel embellishments / Tiers / Flap pockets / Zippers / Quilting / Flower appliqués / Flounces
Accessories + Footwear: Fur bob hats / Chain chokers / Jeweled chunky necklaces / Fingerless knit gloves / Chunky chain and resin bangles / Boxy chain-strap bags in a range of sizes / Embellished minaudieres / Patent leather over-the-knee boots / Thigh-high leggings / Low-heeled loafers / Chain-embellished cowboy boots
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