May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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Paris: Karl Lagerfeld knows how to put on a memorable show. A few seasons ago, a piece of an iceberg was the centerpiece for his stage, and for S/S 13 he covered the floors with solar paneling. For his current Haute Couture offering, he brought in truckloads of trees, creating a forest within the Grand Palais. The designer cited dual influences for his masterful collection – the verdant town of Weimar in his native Germany and Shakespeare’s “A Midsummer Night’s Dream.” The cultural heritage of Weimar, the center of German Romanticism and the home of the Bauhaus movement, was expressed in the ethereal yet precise clothing. Lagerfeld introduced “frame shoulders” that were meant to underscore the face just as a frame highlights a piece of art. The whimsical qualities of the Shakespeare play manifested themselves in fantastical headpieces, romantic flower appliqués, and opulent feather details. In a provocative move, the designer chose to close his show with not one, but two brides, making a statement in favor of France’s proposed gay marriage law. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Boxy / Stacked / Rounded / Voluminous / Columnar / Fit-and-flare
Color: Whitened pastels / Black / Cream / Navy / Poppy / Magenta / Lilac / Lime / Lipstick red / Yellow
Key Items: Tweed skirt suits / A-line dresses / Off-the-shoulder tweed coat / Sequined cocktail dresses / Feather high-low gowns
Materials: Tweed / Heavy lace / Piqué / Lace / Iridescent organza / Tulle / Chiffon / Matte wool / Lustrous silks
Print + Pattern: Large-scale florals
Details + Trim: “Frame shoulders” / Intricate beading / Pavé sequins / Flower appliqués / Feathers / Lace overlays / Funnel necks / Jewel embellishments / Ruching
Accessories + Footwear: Feather and organza headpieces / Long fingerless metallic gloves / Brooches / Skinny belts / Open-toe over-the-knee boots / Cap-toe over-the-knee boots
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