Paris: S/S 13 at Chanel was more girly and youthful than it has been in a several seasons, with many of the pinafore dresses and sailor collar jackets so innocently retro they could have outfitted the adolescent protagonist of Marguerite Duras’ classic novel The Lover. However, Lagerfeld’s message of youth was certainly not stuck in the past. Dramatically staged upon a giant faux-solar panel runway interrupted by enormous wind turbines, the collection mimicked sprawling grid patterns on countless mesh panel dresses and checked tweed suits. Lopped off below the bust, boxy Chanel jackets were updated with round balloon sleeves more Cristobal than Coco, while waffle knits, mesh and woven synthetics were an alternative to simple bouclé. Cropped short, cut a-line and accessorized with hula hoops and tangled pearls, this was Chanel for the next generation.—Nina Stotler

Silhouette: A-line / Round / Long & straight / Boxy / Fit & flare / Empire

Color: Black / White / Cobalt / Crimson / Canary / Shark grey / Periwinkle / Emerald / Coral / Pale red / Chambray blue / Baby pink / Grape / Eggplant / Turquoise / Chocolate

Key Items: Strapless drop waist dressed / Full pleated miniskirts / Straight strapless columns / Cropped jackets / Macramé jumpsuits / Girly sailor dresses / Round shoulder knits / Bolero jackets / Fit & flare chiffon cocktail dresses / Sequined shifts

Materials: Leather / Summer tweed / Textured poplin / Waffle knits / Macramé / Mesh / Bouclé / Embroidered chiffon / Denim / Satin / Netting / Sheer silk

Print + Pattern: Polka dots / Triangle repeats / Blocky checks / Herringbone / Buffalo check / Grids / Wind turbine graphics / Florals

Details + Trim: Contrast leather trim / Pleats / Pearl embellishments / Gold chain trim / Pearl buttons / Miniature bows / Sailor collars / Raw edges / Quilting / Sequins / Chiffon fringe & appliqué / Quilted bibs

Accessories + Footwear: Tangled pearl choker necklaces / Pointy cap toe pumps with transparent cutouts and straps / Cutaway leather gloves / Chunky pearl bracelets / Chanel 2.55 bags / Platform sandals / Quilted clutches with handles / Pearl embellished belts / Flat wide-brimmed hats


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