Chanel Couture Fall/Winter 2012


Paris: New Vintage is the title Karl Lagerfeld gave his latest couture collection for Chanel. The term could be interpreted in at least two ways. The first, a commentary on fashion’s whiplash-inducing pace. With most designers producing four collections a year (Chanel puts out six), clothing can often feel old even six months or a year after it is shown on the runway. Another interpretation of the show’s title could be that these are the items that women will collect in future decades. The care and craftsmanship put into these items makes them lasting and timeless; they will look just as good in 2042 as they do in 2012. The obligatory tweeds were extra-chunky this season, with some created by embroidery on tulle. Glittering sequins provided a touch of shine for some tweed items. The sequins and paillettes were also used as accents on cuffs and collars or piled on to create an ultra-luxurious pair of pants. Eveningwear featured a dizzying array of embellishments, as well – jet beads arranged to create a floral pattern, soft flower appliqués, and overlapping strips of raw-edged chiffon. Vintage or not, these special pieces will appeal to women now and for generations to come. –Joanna Manganaro

Silhouette: A-line / Columnar / Drop-waisted

Color: Cream / Blush / Pale pink / Mid-tone pink / Dove grey / Charcoal / Black

Key Items: Tweed suits / Embellished pants / Long tweed coat

Materials: Chunky tweed / Embroidered tulle / Silk CDC / Chiffon / Velvet / Satin / Lamé / Lace

Print + Pattern: Large-scale florals / Ombré

Details + Trim: Beading / Sequins / Overlapping strips of chiffon / Shell-shaped buttons / Embroidery / Piecing / Flower appliqués / Feathers

Accessories + Footwear: Mesh snoods / Chandelier earrings / Chunky rings / Long metallic fingerless gloves / Tweed clutches / Pewter belts / Silver tights / Cap-toe heels


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