Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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New York: Hussein Chalayan is a conceptual designer at heart. Fashion followers remember his past collections, which featured wooden clothing inspired by furniture and electronic garments that changed shape on the models’ bodies. In recent years, the designer has been focused on creating more wearable clothes, while remaining true to his innovative spirit. For Pre-Fall, Chalayan achieved a nice balance. He played with superimposing armholes onto the chests of peplum tops and elegant hourglass dresses. The curved shape at the chest also appeared for a tough leather jacket, one of the show’s highlights. Prints were another strong point. Vibrant colors and iridescent threads made for motifs that recalled an oil slick. Classic items with a subtle twist – such as a sweatshirt with voluminous sleeves – captured the spirit of the collection.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Hourglass / Long and lean / Volume on top / A-line
Color: Midnight blue / Black / Deep red / Bright green / Bordeaux / Optic white / Magenta / Fuchsia / Acid yellow / Teal / Dusty blue
Key Items: 3/4-sleeve hourglass dress with superimposed armhole / Sweatshirt with voluminous sleeves / Printed skater skirt / Leather motorcycle jacket / Printed skinny pants
Materials: Firm double-faced wool / Crisp cotton / Lurex / Sweatshirt jersey / Fine-gauge yarns / Lustrous charmeuse / Distressed leather / Slick leather / Lace
Print + Pattern: Abstract oil slick motifs
Details + Trim: Superimposed armholes / Peplums / Side slits / Contrast panels / Zippers / Self-belts
Accessories + Footwear: Round-toe pumps / Clunky mules
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