Jun 11, 2018 | By Nick Paget
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INNOVATION + TRANSFORMATION
Paris: Technology and innovation have always been key elements in Hussein Chalayan’s collections, so it was a surprise when he opened his fall show with a series of looks made from humble denim. There were full skater skirts and slim jeans, but the most notable were the wide-leg pants with exaggerated turned-up cuffs that reached nearly to the knee. Chalayan appropriated the style from the hip-hop kids, but made it his own with clean lines and outsize proportions. The designer’s techy tendencies returned with a digital print that resembled an oil slick and another that looked like a collage of torn magazines. The following pieces were straightforward on the surface, but featured creative details – curled lapels, cutaway legs, curved sleeves. Two models removed their dresses on the runway to reveal other dresses beneath, reminding the viewer of Chalayan’s earlier shows, during which coffee tables became dresses and such. Though the designer’s current work is more subdued, it still revolves around transformation and innovation. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Long layers / Hourglass / Flared / Rounded shoulders / Peplum / A-line / Asymmetrical
Color: Black / Raw denim blue / Dove grey / Hot pink / Acid yellow / Lime green / Cerulean / Black / Fiery red / Chocolate brown / Beige / Burgundy
Key Items: Wide-leg cuffed jeans / Denim skater skirts / Printed sheaths / Peplum tops / Jackets with curved seams
Materials: Crisp raw denim / Felted wool / Bonded leather / Chunky yarns / Cotton shirtings / Sweatshirt jersey / Printed silks / Textural wool / Fluid silks / Lamé / Organza / Lace
Print + Pattern: Oil slicks / Torn magazines / Texture motifs / Ombré
Details + Trim: Exaggerated cuffs / Rounded sleeves / Origami folding / Peplums / Quilting / Fabric appliqués / Curved seams and plackets / Veiling / Curled lapels / Zippers / High undulating necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Ankle-strap booties / Ankle-strap pumps
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