After a tumultuous past decade marked by financial troubles and a revolving door of designers, Cerruti has put London-based designer Richard Nicoll in charge of reviving the 43-year-old house. Fall has found the young designer stronger and more focused than ever — perhaps owing to his new position at Cerruti, a brand rooted in classic menswear. As for his own collection, Nicoll presented a cohesive series of menswear-inspired pieces updated for the modern careerwoman, with softened silhouettes and easy styling. Jackets were loose, collarless and without buttons, the fit mainly coming from skinny belts cinched around the waist. The pants were a standout, among them sarong-wrapped tailored trousers and culottes cut from the must-have leather of the season. Pliable leathers were also worked into one-sleeve blouses and draped shifts in a prim yet subtly edgy mash-up that remained completely appropriate for the workplace and beyond. All the ensembles were colored in tonal monochromes of blood orange, peacock blue and cosmetic peaches, highlighting the rich mix of textures in the collection, from fuzzy sweaters to plush velvet jackets. Taking over an established brand, especially one with as high a turnover as Cerruti, is always a daunting task, but with this strong debut, Nicoll has hopefully bought himself a few more seasons.
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