May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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SUPERLATIVE SOPHOMORE EFFORT
Paris: The second time was a charm for Richard Nicoll and Cerruti. The London designer was recently tapped to revitalize the label, and in his sophomore effort, Nicoll mixed ethereal sheers and structured garments for a hauntingly beautiful collection. Chiffon pants and light-as-air separates were juxtaposed with firm, tailored pieces that clung tightly to the body. A geometric pattern referenced a motif that 40s Hollywood designer Adrian had used (and also seemed to suggest the Constructivist art movement) but sexy cutouts made it feel of-the-moment. Striated fabrics and intricate beading gave pieces a subtle sense of dimension. Like several other designers this season, Nicoll commissioned a video showing his clothes in action; the model Malgosia Bela was shot in often-blurry slow motion wandering about an eerie space illuminated by white-hot light. The designer cited 60s icon Nico as an inspiration for the film, with Bela channeling the Velvet Underground singer’s elegant ennui. Although Nicoll drew from many ideas for this collection, an underlying modernity and sophistication brought the diverse inspirations together.
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