Dec 06, 2018 | By Jane Boddy
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Undoubtedly one of the most anticipated shows of the year, the Central St Martins BA programme boasts a lucrative reputation for generating some of the most creative minds in the business.
With alumni from Alexander McQueen to John Galliano, last night saw a staggering new wave of talent hit the runway at Central Saint Martins.
A carefully selected roster of 41 students showed off the fruits of their labour, in a show packed with creativity, anger, passion and political angst. WGSN’s Anna Ross spills all.
Shan stole our hearts with his part-Miro-painting-part-Calder-mobile creations – this stuff was ethereal – seemingly floating through the air, delicate and transfixing. Abstract shapes came suspended from the body, interwoven in neon brights. Shan gained special mention in the speaker’s notes for her unbounded creativity.
Print design BA grad, Goom Heo scooped first prize this season with a fierce collection which had every editor suddenly reach for their pen. Heo combined tailoring, layering and logomania. The catwalk was awash with boxy tailoring worn under leather pants, or layer-upon-layer of sports jerseys piling up as one piece to close. We loved that the collection played around with fashion’s growing obsession with sports and streetwear. Goom hopes to move on to the MA course already boasting names such as Miu Miu and Prada under her belt.
Akiki’s girls stormed the runway, laden with bullet belts crammed with cigarettes and.. hand fulls of, erm, sandwiches. This was as much as a performance as it was sartorially impressive. Models navigated their way down the catwalk erraticly and filled with fury, smearing lipstick over their faces and snarling at the audience.
Remember when our Menswear Editor Nick Paget said Gorpcore was a thing? Well it’s coming through loud and clear in student collections too, with Norwegian designer Øyvind Rogstad ticking the activewear boxes with a collection infused with sporty-come-climber vibes. Street ready and ultra-cool, Rogstad is one to watch on the menswear scene.
This serene menswear collection sang to the minimalist in me. Menswear designer Kaz Miyazaki played with soft, cropped and oversized silhouettes in natural materials, incorporating a neutral palette with subtle textures and embroidery. The accessories made the collection, with looping neck ties in black leather and caps with long, trailing closures. Oh, and the outerwear – we all need one of Miyazaki’s engulphing trench coats this fall.
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