New York: Traditional British elements mixed with futuristic shine and luxe materials for Phoebe Philo’s Pre-Fall collection for Celine. Slim tweed riding jackets with contrast trim and lapels, as well as classic tartans used for a short sheath, wide-leg trousers and a slouchy top, were quintessentially Anglo, but unique details like pieced constructions and leather panels gave them an update. Patchworks made from raw Japanese denim could have been remnants from the S/S 11 collection, while collaged tweeds made for what Philo called “modern urban camouflage”. Glossy pieced duchesse satin pants and a striking iridescent PVC coat created a compelling, tech-y contrast with the matte, traditional fabrics. Philo also included fluffy furs and leopard-printed calfskin for luxurious outerwear options; the statement coat seemed to be a key message. While perhaps the busiest of her collections for Celine, the looks all projected the subtle innovation and exhilarating newness one has come to expect from Philo.

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