Paris: Phoebe Philo’s influential collections for Celine have all worked around the theme of creating a new, finely-crafted minimalism, and this season was no different, but incremental changes in the silhouette and the inclusion of color signaled Philo was loosening things up a bit. The precise wide-leg pants of the past were relaxed and lightweight this time around, made from flowing silks or lightweight denim. Striking shades of blue, orange, red and green enlivened the pared-down separates, as did bordered scarf prints and wide stripes. Boxy woven tees, collarless shirts and tunics were in line with the aesthetic Philo has created, and self-belted straight skirts – one standout version made from mahogany leather – were impeccable. A subtly Asian influence was an intriguing undercurrent, discernible in obi-like belts over trapunto-stitched vests and rigid leather tunics over cropped pants. The brilliant Philo has yet another hit under her belt this season – consistent with her past collections for the label, while still feeling innovative, fresh and truly desirable.

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