Paris: Phoebe Philo’s recent comeback as designer at Celine has been lauded by critics and customers alike, and her influence has already been felt as scores of designers echo the modern minimalism she initiated. She stuck with the appealing style this season, elaborating on the elements she introduced for S/S 10 and Pre Fall. A-line skirts and flared capris returned, and leather remained a key material. This time, Philo added shinier skins to the waxy matte pieces she used for spring; the glossy surfaces gave items a more polished feeling, especially when paired with tops in fine fabrics like delicate lace, and the molded leathers from last season were used more sparingly, mostly for bodice pieces on dresses. Leather pockets and trims continued, but were even more pronounced when applied in wide swathes, and bouclé wools added texture. Trailing panels that cascaded from white woven tops and dresses were an elegant touch that brought movement to the collection. Philo’s coats were a highlight, with one particular standout in navy featuring a notch that created a high-thigh slit. It’s subtle details like this that have made Philo at Celine such a phenomenon — she has tuned into every woman’s desire for classic pieces with an intelligent twist.

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