Fashion-followers have impatiently awaited the return of Phoebe Philo ever since she left Chloé to spend time with her young family. After a promising warm-up with the Celine resort collection, Philo has confidently taken the reigns of the established Parisian house. Her effortless cool has already invigorated the label and made for intensely desirable garments for S/S 10. Working in a limited palette of beige, camel, cream, white and black, she created minimal separates that felt modern and new. Leather pieces were a highlight, molded into cropped tees, shorts, perfectly simple dresses and trapunto-stitched items. Nude knit tops fit scuba-tight, and were paired with fluid pleated skirts or leather A-line minis. Raw-edged natural linen pieces with leather laces and trim – in particular, a cropped-sleeve coat and a boxy miniskirt – had a refined rustic quality. The cult-inducing silhouettes she designed at Chloé were reflected in the relaxed trousers she included this season; the pants are flattering and timeless with a natural waist and full leg. With clear vision and a cohesive collection, Philo has made a great start at Celine.

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