May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Phoebe Philo’s yet-again brilliant collection for Céline was defined by restraint, in a variety of respects. Her minimalist aesthetic, with its emphasis on refusing the unnecessary, was the most obvious manifestation of the concept. Clean, A-line skirts and dresses, boxy tops, and simple duster and pea coats were the building blocks of the offering. Embellishments and details were scarce, but the ones that did appear were consistent with the theme of restraint. Coats and dresses featured attached sleeves that wrapped around the body and tied in front, sometimes binding the arms. There were also circular tops that slipped over the body, again restricting the arms’ movement. Beautiful moments occurred when Philo released some of that control, such as in the two lustrous furs looks that oozed sensuality. And her sense of humor peeked through for the plaid looks whose patterns were based on the ubiquitous cheap plastic woven bags. Though Philo isn’t the first to do a play on the plaid bag (Marc Jacobs and Jack Spade have also done it), her interpretation is certainly the most elegant and offered a cheeky counterpoint to the more sober looks in her collection. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Trumpet / Tent / Rounded / Boxy
Color: Ivory / Buttercream / Soft tan / Blush / Charcoal / Heather grey / Black / Navy / Anthracite / Olive / Warm brown / True red / Sky blue / Magenta / White
Key Items: Plaid separates / A-line skirts / Boxy tops / Dresses with tied sleeves / Pea coats / Fur dresses
Materials: Textural silks / Bouclé / Wool and silk crepe / Wovens made from thick, flat threads / Sumptuous fur / Felted wool / Smooth, matte double-faced silks / Brushed wool / Chunky yarns
Print + Pattern: Plaids inspired by the humble plastic woven bag
Details + Trim: Non-functional tied sleeves / Contrast trim / Oversized lapels / Funnel necks / Bucket pockets / Hairy tuft appliqués / Kimono sleeves
Accessories + Footwear: Metal chokers with pendants / Metal bracelets with pendants / Zipped pouches / Opaque leather-look tights / Simple ankle boots
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