Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Traditional ways of dressing up served as a jumping-off point for Phoebe Philo’s Pre-Fall collection for Céline, an interesting premise for a designer who has made a career out of being non-traditional. The classic pantsuit was interpreted in a variety of ways, each of which felt at once classic and directional. There were slouchy versions, trim versions, double-breasted styles, and pantsuits with peplum jackets. Pearl buttons were used for most of them, offering a cheeky element. Philo also included a few variations on the accordion-pleated midi skirt. Lustrous silks and luxe leathers enhanced their appeal. Few patterns appeared in the collection, but Philo revisited scarf prints on a couple occasions. She also included a Fair Isle pattern for a cozy sweater, another nod toward tradition. Outsized proportions, a key story for Pre-Fall, were present here, as well, making for some standout coats. Oversized elements also appeared for accessories; massive brass belt buckles cinched in waists and brass tongues and uppers embellished chunky platform shoes.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Slouchy / Oversized / A-line / Long and lean / Peplum / Volume on top
Color: Midnight blue / Pure white / Black / Charcoal / True red / Kelly green / Mango / Pumpkin / Sandy blonde / Emerald / Burgundy
Key Items: Slouchy pantsuits / Accordion-pleated skirts / Crisp button-ups / Fur coats
Materials: Matte suitings / Tweed / Slick leather / Stiff silks / Crisp cotton / Printed silks / Chunky wool yarns / Fine-gauge cashmere / Fuzzy pile
Print + Pattern: Damask / Fair Isle / Scarf motifs
Details + Trim: Pearl buttons / Brass buckles / Shirt collars / Peplums / Accordion pleats
Accessories + Footwear: Wide-brimmed straw hats / Long gold pendant necklace / Extra-wide belts / Flat tote bags / Flat oxfords with brass tongues / Platform wedge oxfords / Platform wedge loafers
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