May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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Paris: Having left French brand Cacherel one year ago and received backing from Italian financiers Aeffe S.p.A., Cedric Charlier presented an impressive debut collection for F/W 12. Inky blues layered on blacks served as a chromatic base in leathers and woolens. Tailoring was razor-sharp, often pursuing a robo-exactitude in its covered-up intentional severity. Juxtaposing technology with craft, sharp angles were also engaged in the show’s origami-inspired caveat; one color-blocked shift dress’ folds were recreated (trompe l’oeil-style) within a sweater’s intarsia. Though the collection’s wearable accessibility allowed for many looks to walk right off the runway into the streets, there was no shortage of excitement; Color Field-effect dresses, coppery metallics, and squid ink-tone syntho-fabrics amped the sartorial emotion. –Kibwe Chase-Marshall
Silhouette: Lean / Whittled / Pencil / A-line / Tailored
Color: Navy ink / Navy / Black / White / Burgundy / Charcoal / Coffee bean / Fuchsia / Lime / Cerulean / Vermilian / Forest / Canary Yellow / Aubergine / Copper
Key Items: Slim coat / Pencil skirt / Ribbed turtle-neck / Slim pant
Materials: Plonge leather / Double-faced stretch wool crepe / Wool gabardine / Ponti di Roma / Wool denim-twill / Patent leather / Iridescent stretch syntho-suiting
Print + Pattern: Colorfield abstracts
Details + Trim: Copper-hardware zippers / Copper shank-buttons / Leather panels and insets
Accessories + Footwear: Ankle-strap heeled-sandal / Double monk-strap heeled-brogue / Pump / Evelope clutch / Medium clutch
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