May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: Cedric Charlier has come a long way since his days at Cacharel. His work there was youthful and optimistic, appropriate for the label. But now that he’s on his own, Charlier seems to feel free to explore his edgier side. Instead of the ebullient florals that appeared in his Cacharel collections, he included vaguely Asian abstract designs embroidered with blood red and eerie green on a black backdrop. He also used copious amounts of black leather for wrapped skirts, skinny pants and a naught-but-nice A-line dress. Curly lamb coats and spongy sweaters provided textural contrast and softened the mood. Color was a key element here. Charlier mixed murkier tones with brights, including poppy, electric yellow, and the Pre-Fall favorite, carnation pink. The dichotomies of bright and dark, fur and leather, prim and seductive made for a collection that was intriguing in its many contrasts.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: A-line / Long and lean / Hourglass / Boxy on top
Color: Black / Carnation / Poppy / Electric yellow / Sapphire / Teal / Charcoal / Cobalt / Forest green / Navy / Turquoise
Key Items: Mongolian lamb coat / Asymmetric hemline skirts / Embroidered skinny pants / Leather A-line dress
Materials: Mongolian lamb / Leather / Matte suitings / Double-faced satin / Silk charmeuse / Felted wool / Fine- and medium-gauge cashmere yarns
Print + Pattern: Asian-inspired abstract designs
Details + Trim: Embroidery / Pieced panels / Zippers / Contrast sleeves / Fur collars / Asymmetrical hemlines
Accessories + Footwear: Angular sunglasses / Color blocked envelope wristlets / Boxy clutches and bags / Pointy-toe pumps
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