May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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THE LADY IN THE HEADLIGHTS
Paris: Fuzzy textures crafted from bouclé and mohair are very popular on the runway this month and Fall may be the most abundantly pastel season yet. Creative director Guillaume Henry chose to indulge in both, as well as must-have statement blanket coats and the recently revived Mary Jane, for his F/W 13 Carven presentation; each concept turned on its ladylike head in a manner typical of the house. Amid the thick materials and candy-floss colors there was a new edginess to the collection, spurred by chunky lug-sole sneakers, sparkly club-kid metallic faille and sexy zebra stripe cutouts. Tight fitting ribbed knits were pieced together for a body-mapping effect, while fawn-prints, no matter how much real fur designers use, will always be subversive. Henry’s more on-the-nose tricks, like car headlight graphics (maybe meant for the fawn?) on duchess satin for evening, were not as approachable, but with this many amazing coats and polished, yet witty dresses, Carven’s daytime looks for Fall are sure to maintain their cult following. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Round & oversized / Boxy / Slim
Color: Baby pink / Icy pastel blue / Banana cream / Graphite / Black / Chocolate-y burgundy / Minty sage / Bubblegum pink
Key Items: Round, oversized robe coats / Sharp tulip wrap skirts / Mock turtlenecks / Slim long sleeved dresses / Boxy skirt suits / Slim pencil skirts / Cutout zebra stripe jacquard dresses / Brushed mohair miniskirts / Satin camisole dresses
Materials: Felted wool / Bouclé / Teased mohair / Metallic faille / Jacquard / Lurex / Fur / Leather / Duchess satin
Print + Pattern: Zebra stripes / Abstract car headlight graphics / Deerskin prints
Details + Trim: Oval sleeves / Self belts / Flap pockets / Ribbing / Toggle pulls / Wrap neck ties / Transparent cutouts / Wide lapels & collars
Accessories + Footwear: Lug sole square toe Mary Janes / Futuristic color-tipped plastic sunglasses with smoke lenses / Zebra print tote bags / Sporty platform sneakers / Opaque hosiery / Platform patent leather oxfords / Pleated round satchel bags / Satin peep toe sandals / Matte leather doctor bags / Satin drawstring bags / Punky earrings
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