May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: For Fall, Carolina Herrera sent out an elegant procession of dresses that seemed to be campaigning for the upcoming Oscars, a certain expecting duchess and, well, the First Lady. This is nothing new for a Herrera collection; however, the real story was what was happening between those statuesque columns. There were seductive 40s-influenced dresses and skirts, fitted through the body and flaring to the knee – an almost universally flattering silhouette. The ultra-femme was balanced with bits of men’s tailoring that had the louche swagger of a high-ranking gangster of the same era. By the end of the show, the aim was evident in the bursts of dandelion buds, ample silks, lush velvets and jewel tones – this was a tribute to the mystique of 1940s Shanghai, mixed with the seductive noir of Nicholson and Dunaway’s Chinatown. As we descend upon the Year of the Snake, this collection could not have slinked its way onstage at a better time.—Nivara Xaykao
Silhouette: Long and lean / Relaxed hip / Trumpet
Color: Caramel / Emerald / Deep rouge / Scarlet / Brilliant blue / Baby blue /
Key Items: Column gown / Wall Street suit / Scuba turtleneck / Fur capelet / Evening maxi skirt / Princess coat / Bow blouse / 40s dress
Materials: Duchesse satin / Fur / Boiled wool / Lamé / Tweed / Organza / Chiffon / Baroque lace / Velvet / Washed silk
Print + Pattern: Memphis Group geos / Recolored Hudson’s Bay stripes / Oversized herringbone / Dandelion buds / Scotch plaid with foiled overprint / Glen plaid
Details + Trim: Scuba-inspired panels / Cleavage keyholes / Princess sleeves / Schoolgirl neck bow / Square “rip-outs” / Fur trimming / Rhinestones / Glass bugle beads
Accessories + Footwear: Kidney belts / T-strap pumps
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