An exaggerated riff on 1990s style, the collection featured wide-legged trousers, distressed sweaters and beautiful slip dresses. WGSN Catwalks Director Lizzy Bowring reports
Francisco Costa presented his Spring/Summer 2016 collection for Calvin Klein as one of the last shows of NYFW and it was worth the wait. Here was a beautifully-crafted presentation with the slip dress being the pivotal silhouette, around which he played.
Titled “The morning after” – where the look of spent passion came across in just a few pieces – for the most part, there were precisely constructed silhouettes. In an exaggerated riff on the 1990s, fluid shapes in wide leg trousers and trench coats were embellished with openwork seams, cut-rough edges and loose ties infused with delicate prints of photographic florals and peony prints.
Costa showed them layered and spliced with solids on long, lean silhouettes. The final vignette showed slip dresses adorned with delicate chains draped around shoulder straps and bodices – a fitting touch. Sequins were the only other added embellishment in all over renditions of slip dresses. It was a beautiful, wistful collection rounded out in the comfort of flatform, white-soled loafers.
Theme: The morning after.
Key Items: Slipdress, Sleeveless tailored coat, tailored fluid jacket, wide leg trousers, camisoles, aprons, distressed sweater, sequined coat, sequin covered dresses.
Colour: White, porcelain, sand, black.
Print and pattern: Photographic peony, floral bouquet.
Trims and materials: Stitching, satin, leather, chains, sequins.
Footwear and accessories: Flatform slip-ons in solid and print, tag bracelet, soft shoulder bag.
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