Oct 05, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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New York: In a collection comprised solely of sheaths, coats, shells, and straight skirts (there was not a pair of pants in sight), Francisco Costa continued his ongoing exploration of minimalism. Silhouettes and styles remained mostly the same throughout, allowing him to play with other elements – in particular, texture. Though Costa has been known to experiment with high-tech materials, this season he worked with humbler stuff, such as felted wool, haircalf, and a cozy, teddy bear-like pile. Matte leather and laminated snakeskin added to the textural range. The designer carved these disparate materials into sculptural sheaths and standout coats. High funnel necklines projected the monastic element one expects from Costa, though his contrast linings drew the eye to the peeks of leg made visible with high slits. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Columnar / Rounded shoulders / Hourglass
Color: White / Black / Caramel / Chocolate brown / Brick red / Beige
Key Items: Sheaths / Pencil skirts / Coats with extra-large lapels / Round-shouldered coats
Materials: Double-faced wool suitings / Felted wool / Laminated snakeskin / Haircalf / Teddy bear pile / Slick leather
Details + Trim: Rounded shoulders / Extra-large lapels / Funnel necks / Contrast lining / Slits / Peplums / Color blocking
Accessories + Footwear: Medium-width leather belts / Small frame clutches / Knee-high boots / Round-toe pumps / Ankle-strap sandals
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