Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Milan: Italo Zucchelli has successfully taken a design house known as the purveyor of modern minimalism and moved it into explorations of the graphic side of active sportswear. The use of advanced fabrics and materials repurposed for a sporty yet tailored lifestyle informed S/S 11, albeit with a few missteps along the way. Crop tops and the color-blocked active suits didn’t seem to resonate with Calvin Klein Collection’s modern man, but other ideas — including marbled suiting, oversized plaid and experimentation with active layers — came off as appropriately directional. The label’s usual black, slate and grey palette was present for another season, but it was the tone-on-tone khaki that looked fresh, occasionally popped with swimming pool blue. Satin shirtings and wool pants expressed a subtle play with tonal texture, while aerated knits added intriguing dimension when layered under tailored jackets. While Zucchelli’s avant-garde designs may not be for everyone, there is no denying their immense influence on the future of menswear.
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