May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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CONCEAL ME, REVEAL ME
New York: Francisco Costa’s S/S 13 Calvin Klein presentation opened with dimensional sheers, their movement rigorously tailored into graphic bustier dresses and layered sheaths. Seductive lines ran throughout, turning up as coated satin skirt suits defined by contrast piping or peek-a-boo frayed edges revealed beneath a molded peplum top, but it was shadowy transparency which defined the season. By obscuring the many strapless dresses with swirls of sculptural bonded mesh, Costa elongated their silhouettes and fueled our curiosity about what lay beneath. This push and pull of revealing and concealing persisted with even the more architectural ensembles, as the designer undressed his models with off-the-shoulder necklines while simultaneously covering up using rectangular bib fronts or sheer tanks. This type of restrained balancing act is par for the course at Calvin Klein, and for Spring, Costa made it clear he’s mastered the tension.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Fitted hourglass / Fit & flare / Slim / Off-the-shoulder / A-line
Color: Ebony / Cream / Pale lime / Arctic white
Key Items: Architectural bustier dresses / Peplum corset tops / Bonded silk nipped-waist jackets / Layered shift dresses / Mesh cocktail dresses / Skinny piped trousers / Sheer pencil skirts
Materials: Mesh silk crepe / Sheer silk / Coated satin / Bonded silk
Print + Pattern: Wavy lines
Details + Trim: Frayed edges / Contrast linings / Peplums / Peaked shoulders / Gathering / Notched necklines
Accessories + Footwear: Square toe mary-jane platform pumps / Super-skinny strap platform sandals / Skinny leather belts / Chain strap clutch bags
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