May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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New York: It is safe to say Francisco Costa had Rooney Mara’s post-Girl with the Dragon Tattoo red carpet style transformation on his mind while putting together the F/W 12 Calvin Klein Collection. Although the presentation included the label’s typical clean modernity, a severe monastic streak showed up as well, expressed through covered up black leather dresses, modest long-sleeved popcorn knit tops, and full-skirted frocks with sheer panels. Several models with cropped bangs made clear the influence of the new starlet, but Costa is certainly no slave to popular culture, and his new work was primarily about the waist. Accentuated with wide leather belts, peplum flares and precise pintucks, sturdy wool dresses and overcoats were aggressively feminine grown-up classics with an hourglass shape. Rounded shoulders and stiff funnel necks created a strong line only furthering the impact of nipped middles, and a handful of bright coral pieces were a welcome break from inky black and grey.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Hourglass / Fitted / A-line / Fit and flare
Color: Bright coral / Black / White / Grey
Key Items: Sleeveless dresses / Round sleeve dresses / Cropped jackets / Double pleat sleeveless shifts / A-line leather skirts / Popcorn knit tops / Funnel neck leather tops / Cropped trousers / Full princess coats
Materials: Cashmere / Wool / Leather / Popcorn knits / Bouclé / Cashmere / Mohair blends
Details + Trim: Pleating / Pintucking / Funnel necks / Sheer panels / Beading / Leather trim
Accessories + Footwear: Wide leather belts / Simple pumps / Tall leather boots
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