Apr 20, 2018 | By Emma Griffin
Milan: Calvin Klein Collection designer Italo Zucchelli looked to hyper-masculine influences like Navy SEALs, boxers and 90s rappers for S/S 12. Clear or yellow-lensed glasses referenced goggles for ballistic shooting or racquetball, while models walked the runway in futuristic nylon track jackets, voluminous warm-up pants, or baggy below-the-knee shorts in shades of medical grey, robin’s egg blue, key lime, and bright whites. To balance the techno feel of these active-inspired pieces the designer included earthy, weathered, dark jeans and denim tank tops. Other classics were reinterpreted with technological touches like trim blazers and suits in tiled suede or rubber; standard tees were cut from neoprene in matte black or grey, as were traditional Harrington jackets with sparkling silver zippers. One-piece dress shoes came equipped with heavy clear plastic brogue soles, adding to the masculine-techno feel of the show. Throughout, Zucchelli celebrated manly heroics while showcasing an infatuation with the creative possibilities that cutting-edge materials offer. —Andrew Luecke
Color: Robin’s egg blue / Key lime / Black / Ash grey
Materials: Neoprene / Denim / Printed laser-cut rubber / Mesh / Suede / Nylon
Print + Pattern: Cubic checks
Details + Trim: Laser-textiles / Small point collars / Sparkling silver zippers
Accessories + Footwear:Clear or yellow-lensed glasses / Clear-soled brogues / Workboots
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