May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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MAKING THE MOLD
New York: The concentration on hourglass silhouettes has been almost uniformly consistent this week, with each designer presenting some type of feminine, curvy outline. Francisco Costa’s version for Calvin Klein Collection took the hourglass into 2012 via substantial wool and leather, crafting skirt suits with nearly invisible matching belts, or topping a crewneck cashmere sweater with a pleated leather bustier. Molded skins appeared throughout the presentation, most notably employed for a constructed nipped waist bomber jacket recalling classic Balenciaga techniques. Although he stuck to a typically limited palette of chocolate, pumice, black, charcoal and pumpkin, Costa did let loose a few times, spinning openwork knits into three swingy dresses.—Nina Stotler
Silhouette: A-line / Hourglass / Rounded
Color: Charcoal / Pumpkin / Pumice / Black
Key Items: Pleated skirts / Nipped waist jackets / Feminine trench coats / Molded leather jackets / Full skirted dresses / Wool overcoats / Elongated suit jackets / Leather bustiers
Materials: Leather / Wool / Cashmere / Felt / Open weave knit
Details + Trim: Rigid collars / Peplums / Self belts / Pleats / Zippers
Accessories + Footwear: Peep toe pumps / Braided leather belts
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