May 29, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
Milan: Christopher Bailey did an about-face for S/S 12, sending down the runway a sunny assortment of African prints, artisanal techniques and rustic materials. Naming his collection “Handcrafted Heritage” was an apt title for time-honored items that got dimension from handcrafted wooden toggles, weathered metal buttons, printed jacket linings and ethnic appliqués. In addition to the novelty of the color-saturated prints, the eclectic styling subtly suggested an Englishmen abroad on an exotic journey. With a collection that is as refreshing as a coastal breeze, Bailey (along with a few other designers) is singlehandedly helping to reshape the perception of menswear classics. —Michael Fisher
Color: Mustard yellow / Moss / Clove brown / Garnet / Bright amber / Dark bottle green / Violet / Ink and indigo / Primrose white / Oat and wheat brown / “Dark peacock” / Orange
Key Items: Oversized trench coats / Baggy fishtail parkas / Cotton duffel coat / Cropped fishermen sweaters / Beaded Fair Isle knits / Boxy short-sleeve woven shirts / Carrot-leg pants / Two-button blazers
Materials: Gabardine / Cotton twill / Coated nylon canvas / Starched tumbled cotton / Sunburst printed nylon / Chambray linen / Bonded leather / Raffia / Cotton-linen denim
Details + Trim: Weathered natural wood, horn and metal / Leather trench buckles / Hand-shredded raffia / Hand-crochet wooden beads / Detachable collars / Fishtail hems / Tab adjusters / Draw-cord waists and hems / Whip-stitched felt bird appliqués
Accessories + Footwear: Alligator iPad sleeves / Woven leather tote bags / Crochet raffia caps / Acetate sunglasses / Cork sole moccasins / Raffia contrast desert boots / “Tapestry” contrast desert boots
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