Burberry Prorsum


London: The vintage-style shearling bomber jacket gave the trenchcoat a run for its money at this season’s Burberry Prorsum show. Designer Christopher Bailey took his inspiration for the collection from an aviator jacket he found in the Burberry archives. The jacket was spun into in a variety of shapes, from cropped to thigh-length, in rich chocolate brown leather or cream-colored fur. Military influences extended to the palette, which was predominately made up of shades of olive green mixed with browns, although Bailey introduced a more expanded range of tones later in the show. The designer wisely paired the tough outerwear with delicate lace pieces, playing with a masculine-feminine theme. Bailey took a more traditional route with the trench this season; a slim fit and shiny gold buttons characterized its current incarnation, but ruched panels at the hem referenced his experimentations from last season. Ruched velvet dresses and pencil skirts and lace tops closed the show on a feminine note, but heavy-duty zippers made sure the looks weren’t too sweet. Bailey’s brilliant balance of masculine and feminine is only rivaled by his handling of history and technology. The venerable house of Burberry was one of the first to embrace the power of the internet — this was the second season that was broadcast live online.

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