Jan 17, 2018 | By Samuel Trotman
Milan: After a couple of seasons of international influences, Christopher Bailey seemed ready to return to the quiet solitude and refinement of the English gentleman. In fact, it was the “gentle” part of the word that was emphasized, with soft tweeds, lush velvets and quilted suedes feeling more comforting than lavish. The collection, aptly named “The Gentlemen”, was a prime example of Trad meets Mod, as suits hugged the body in all the right ways and streamlined proportions celebrated classic menswear. As the creative force behind one of the most heritage-driven brands in the world, Bailey seamlessly combined elements of both city and country dressing by layering quilted hunting jackets over velvet suits, placing blanket-inspired border stripes on a time-honored trench, and showing playful animal appliqués on sophisticated sweaters. The men of Downton Abbey and Sherlock Holmes are inspiring today’s generation to embrace the cultivated and Edwardian sides of their psyches, but it’s Bailey who will make sure they’re dressed the part in a contemporary way. —Michael Fisher
Color: “Smokey beige” / Camel / Marigold / “Blackcurrant” / Plum / Oxblood / “Royal purple” / “Gingerwood” / “Clove brown” / “Regency blue” / Ink / Indigo green / Olive green / Pewter / Chcolate
Key Items: Border stripe trench coats / “Luggage lock” duffle coats / Double-breasted top coats / Shearling field jackets / Funnel neck bomber jackets / Double-breasted suits / Scoop neck sweaters / Velvet suits / Tapered tab-hem trousers
Materials: Velvet / Shearling / Wool flannel / “Heritage” cotton gabardine / “Compact canvas tweed” / Worsted wool / Cashmere / Cotton poplin / Quilted waxed-cotton / Down-filled nylon
Details + Trim: Velvet collars on jackets / Adjustable throat latches / Undercollar zig-zag embroidery / Metal collar hooks / Luggage rivets and lock fastenings on outerwear / Oversized gold metal luggage zips with leather pulls / Horn buttons / Satin piping and tape seam sealing / Zipped bellow patch pockets / Beaded owl and fox head intarsias
Accessories + Footwear: Umbrellas with resin animal head handle / Leather rubber sole brogues / Leather rubber sole lace-up derby shoes / Suede geometric patchwork document cases / Suede geometric patchwork holdalls / Studded leather gloves / Textured tweed flat caps / College stripe cashmere scarves and knit ties
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