Milan: Like the Dolce & Gabbana show that day, Brioni began with a full-skirted white lace dress. It seemed like an overly romantic gesture by newly minted creative director Alessandro Dell’Acqua, a designer known for mixing urban-minded tailored separates with slight dashes of feminine frills. Then again, Dell’Acqua wanted to wipe the slate clean for his first season at the house, and what better way to do that than with a series of virginal white ensembles? Like his own No. 21 label this season, the all-white palette graduated into pleasant shades of dove grey, camel and a shock of poppy red, which is shaping up to be a key color this season. Dell’Acqua’s tailoring skills were the star of the show, however, displayed in crisp cropped pantsuits and in more relaxed wide-legged pants and a jumpsuit-like ponté dress. The lace was reduced to subtle accents throughout the collection, taking on more contemporary forms for raglan blouses and fancy tees and segueing into sophisticated black versions. In keeping with the house’s heritage, the collection was clean, classic and wearable; however, the designer injected just enough newness – like experimenting with silhouette by pairing tops cinched at the natural waist with low-slung pants and tucking a blazer into slim pants – to resurrect interest in the label.

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