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Breaking Mercury

New York…Calvin Klein Collection

Bringing the collection back to New York for the first time in years, designer Italo Zucchelli continued his mission of taking one of America’s most quintessential labels into the future. The soundtrack played “Jet Song” from West Side Story, perhaps celebrating the fact of the collection “coming home” to its clean, New York roots. The uniformity of tonal greys for many of the looks made a foundation for some of the season’s strongest layers, while still maintaining Calvin Klein Collection’s trademark clean appeal.  The experimental use of neoprene on armored-looking coats was quite a statement. Perhaps the collection’s best use of innovation was the liquid-like material flowing around some of the looks like mercury. A guy walking down the street wearing one of those jackets or suits would never be missed, that’s for sure. Zucchelli is one of the most reliable designers in the industry when it comes to exploring the notion of reconstruction in menswear, giving us new silhouettes and angles that we would have never thought about otherwise.

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