May 26, 2017 | By Samuel Trotman
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The denim team has just returned from yet another inspirational Berlin trip, where we attended the major trade shows across the city, highlighting the newest denim developments along the way.
Yesterday, Bread & Butter closed its doors to its 28th edition of the world-renowned show. This season saw a restructuring of the major denim hall, The Denim Base, which has now become The Urban Base. This hosts a new portfolio of urban fashion brands alongside the big international denim brands. Last year’s Temple of Denim opened the doors to a great selection of artisanal brands that refreshed the BBB denim listing, after the loss of some bigger labels over the past year. Labels like Rising Sun & Co., Rokker, The Flat Head, Momotaro, and the Japan Blue group returned once again for F/W 13, taking a new location in the popular L.O.C.K. area. Additionally, The Fire Dept provided a well edited selection of new and seasoned brands like Manic Monkey (co-created by Piero Turk), Circle of Friends Studio, 3Sixteen, and Tellason.
One of the key themes for brands this season was an interactive custom denim workshop. For S/S 13, Scott Morrison installed a full-scale replication of his New York-based concept store 3×1, and it seems that his bespoke service has influence a number of other denim brands for F/W 13. Major labels like Pepe Jeans, Italian mill Candiani, Mustang and G-Star invited attendees to get their hands blue and personalize their own denims. Services ranged from G-Star’s Raw Atelier program showcasing high-end craftsmanship and tailoring on their 3301 Red Listing jeans, to Candiani’s Laboratorio that offered expert demonstrations in premium Italian washes. Meanwhile, Pepe celebrated its 40th anniversary by giving away 1,973 free pairs of jeans that could be personalized by laser.
While camouflage has been a reoccuring trend in denim for many seasons, F/W 13 saw a range of brands cleverly reinterpret the pattern to give new directional. Brands like Denham, Mavi, and Evisu pushed prints across multiple categories, using laundered techniques and pieced constructions to refresh assortments. Color was also an important element for designers, with indigo-on-indigo takes, washed-out and laundered looks and stark white takes on traditional woodland palettes.
Hunting and woodland themes were a novel move-on to workwear for many brands this season.
Touches of Junya Watanabe’s idiosyncratic approach to utility style could be seen throughout many collections with mixed-media takes on jackets and pants. Barn jackets and capes were crafted from dry denims that were accented with supple suedes, velvety corduroy, and canvas inserts to create striking, hard-wearing outerwear options. Quilting appeared on modern biker gilets, while Edwin-Europe teamed up with legendary British outerwear brand, Lavenham for an exclusive down jacket. Another notable brand was California’s Rising Sun & Co. who looked to wax treatments for an authentic take on traditional canvas hunting jackets.
We’re currently sifting through the hundreds of inspirational images from the show, so keep your eye out on the denim page for the full report next week.
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