Apr 20, 2018 | By Emma Griffin
Milan: Tomas Maier looked towards the Arab world’s pursuit of democracy when initially thinking about S/S 12. The result was a subtle integration of various sartorial styles from around the world. Rather than brash allover prints and in-your-face ethnic motifs seen at other collections this week, the designer showed a disciplined assortment of contrasting surfaces and silhouettes. Mixed patterns were enhanced and amplified in layered and clashing ways — geometric patterns were fused together, and materials were patched or cut apart and re-formed. As in previous seasons, Maier borrowed subtle details from military dress (mandarin collars, epaulets and technical fabrics) and in giving them new context, made them into something fresh. —Michael Fisher
Color: Espresso brown / Blue tourmaline / Indigo / Pewter / “Sahara” tan / Pistachio green
Key Items: Mandarin-collar jackets / Printed leather military shirts / Rumpled suits / Boat-neck sweaters / Allover printed shirts and fine gauge cardigans
Materials: Sail cloth / Cotton twill / Seersucker / Denim / Linen / Jersey / Laundered leather
Details + Trim: Overprinted surface effects / Contrast tipping on sweaters / Permanent creases on pants / Flat pockets / Mandarin collars
Accessories + Footwear: Classic lace-up Oxfords / Backless slides / Vertical leather carryalls / Envelope bags / Rounded sunglasses
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