Oct 16, 2018 | By Nigel Taylor
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Milan: Tomas Maier loosened the reins on his own creativity this season, unleashing a proliferation of techniques that fascinated but never overwhelmed. Markedly more free-flowing and artistic than previous Bottega Veneta collections, Spring was a deep exploration of craft, but not the folky, cultural rip-offs so common lately. The craft here was in the sophisticated construction, abstract patchwork, pleats, folds and trims. Nearly every ensemble demanded closer inspection to discover intricate beading stitched to mimic ceramic tile, knits treated with a watery, marbled pattern, or vibrant plaid distressed with unfinished fibers. Beyond the many covetable, tonal dresses, Maier also delved into denim, producing slouchy, grown-up indigo trousers and hallucinatory pink tie-dye jeans. Jewelry, bags and footwear continued the handmade yet luxurious direction, and even more texture came from dangling beaded earrings, exotic skin belts and graphic, color-blocked sandals. —Nina Stotler
Silhouette: Slim / Dropped waist / Fitted / Cropped / Slouchy
Color: Emerald / Sapphire / Aquamarine / Plum / White / Navy / Deep orange / Ruby red / Violet / Yellow / Hot pink / Grays / Black
Key Items: Leather motorcycle jackets / Fitted bodice dresses / Pencil skirts / Cropped cardigans / Halter dresses / Sweater t-shirts / Elongated blazers / Tunic blouses
Materials: Leather / Satin / Silk / Intarsia knits / Denim / Cotton / Chiffon / Organza
Print + Pattern: Tie-dye / Geometrics / Ethnic / Marbling / Plaid
Details + Trim: Beading / Fringe / Knotting / Patent leather trim / Patchwork / Ribbing / Gathering / Pleating
Accessories + Footwear: Metal bangles / Doctor bags / Sling back, peep toe heels / Reptile skin belts / Color block enamel bangles / Delicate beaded earrings / Rounded clubmaster sunglasses / Geometric chokers / Color block, high-heeled sandals / Slouchy hobo bags / Pendant necklaces / Patterned clutches / Fringe scarves
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