Mar 27, 2019 | By Volker Ketteniss
Milan: Focusing on the word “elongation,” designer Tomas Maier emphasized lean proportions in a F/W 12 collection that took a page out of a dystopian novel. Geometric color blocking on flannel suits was achieved with overprinting techniques, and contrasting point collars on shirts mimicked exposed neckwear (a subtle Victorian influence, like many other shows in Milan this week). Tailored pants were some of the slimmest Maier has ever shown, and hybrid outerwear and wool toggle coats created a manly hourglass shape. Lustrous panels worked onto bomber jackets and blazers added a techno dimension to what was otherwise classic menswear. The designer always finds a way to inject archetypal styles with a young edge, and even with a moody dark palette, skinny fits, pieced materials, shiny surfaces and a novel play on pattern, the Bottega man still exemplifies the epitome of luxurious tailoring.
Color: Charcoal / Burgundy / Metallic silver / Peacock jewel tones / Denim blue / Camel / Tonal blacks / Ivory
Key Items: Three-button flannel suits / Moto-blazer hybrids / Shearling-lined bomber jacket / Wool toggle coat / Flocked V-neck sweaters / Asymmetric overcoats / Slim tailored pants
Materials: Velvet / Melton wool / Nylon / Wool flannel / Shearling / Leather / Glazed denim
Details + Trim: Velvet flocking on sweaters / Flat toggles / Shearling linings / Color-blocking on suiting and shirts / Pieced construction / Asymmetric closures / Flat quilted surfaces / Funnel necks
Accessories + Footwear: Slim ties / Cashmere fringed scarves / Cuban heel boots
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