Sep 21, 2018 | By Alice Gividen
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RICHNESS FROM POVERTY
Milan: There’s sure to be a lot of talk surrounding Tomas Maier’s latest collection for Bottega Veneta. Dyeing strips of wood and straw and shellacking them to his elegant sheaths, he stated that his goal was “to create embellishment out of poverty.” Edges were often left raw, and what looked like scraps of crumpled chiffon were used as appliqués, also relating to the humble notion. The disconnect between the astronomical prices of his designs and “poverty” may rile up some critics, but semantics aside, the clothes themselves were breathtakingly gorgeous. Maier worked with a narrow 40s silhouette, adding origami-folded panels for dimension. Pagoda shoulders and kimono elements also suggested an Asian reference. Many of his standout coats featured multiple lapels that overlapped one another, recalling the petals of a flower and perfectly framing the face. The finest shirring on satin dresses gave them such a rich texture that they looked like panne velvet from afar. Certainly no hint of poverty there. –Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Broad-shouldered / Peplum / Hourglass / A-line / Rounded
Color: Black / Ivory / Lipstick red / Goldenrod / Caramel / Bronze / Navy
Key Items: Multi-lapel coats / Embellished sheaths / Gathered silk tops / Skirts with inside-out pleats
Materials: Double-faced crepe / Firm wool / Lustrous charmeuse / Satin / Chiffon / Fine-gauge cashmere yarns / Suitings with a sheen / Tulle
Print + Pattern: Irregular lines / Abstract shapes
Details + Trim: Dyed wood and straw appliqués / Crumpled chiffon appliqués / Multiple lapels / Pagoda shoulders / Origami folding / Inside-out pleats / Piecing / Embroidery
Accessories + Footwear: Gold chain pendant necklaces / Gold multi-chain bracelets / Small top-handle bags / Boxy doctor bags / Accordion clutches / Minaudieres / Skinny belts / Silk fabric belts / Platform lace-up booties / Platform round-toe pumps
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