May 10, 2017 | By Carlene Thomas Bailey
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A TAILORED ELEGANCE
New York: The fluttery forties-inspired dresses of S/S 13 were replaced by precise tailored looks for what Tomas Maier called his Early Fall presentation. (Commendations to him for ditching the silly “Pre-” moniker.) Pants were clean and sophisticated with pressed creases running down their long, straight legs, and classic trench coats appeared in a variety of tones. Speaking of color, the hues Maier used in the collection were perhaps its most compelling quality. The show notes referenced flowers and listed tones named after rococo artists, including Watteau and Boucher. The rococo inspirations ended there, however. Instead, Japanese influences appeared, with kimono sleeves, self-belted robes, and Asian-inspired prints. A handful of dresses with flounces were carried forward from Spring, but the real focus was on the elegant tailored pieces.–Joanna Manganaro
Silhouette: Columnar / A-line / Wide-shouldered / Hourglass / Slouchy
Color: Blush / Rose / Plum / Slate / Black / Rust / Charcoal / White / Midnight blue
Key Items: Trench coats / Tailored trousers / Kimono tops / Printed dresses / Slouchy pantsuits
Materials: Suitings with a sheen / Gabardine / Crepe / Fluid silks / Silk jersey / Lustrous crinkled leather / Double-faced wool / Double-faced cashmere / Double-faced cotton
Print + Pattern: Japanese geometric designs / Abstract texture prints / Painterly rectangles
Details + Trim: Kimono sleeves / Self-belts / Extended shoulders / Flounces / Pressed creases / Leather trim / Double-breasted closures / Draping / Turtlenecks
Accessories + Footwear: Chunky bangles / Metal and colored leather belts / Large clutches / Intrecciato bucket bags, totes, frame bags, and fanny packs / Flat loafers / Pointy-toe pumps / Bondage-y lace-up platforms
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