May 23, 2019 | By Alice Gividen
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ROC ‘N ROCO JOCK
Bora Aksu’s influences for his spring collection could be summed up by the shoes: two parts pastel-coated Rococo to one part tomboy “scrimmage chic” — with a shot of plasticized rock ‘n roll futurism to tie it all together. Pieces of lace, chiffon, athletic mesh, PVC, taffeta and floral jacquards looked like they had all been thrown into a pot and taken out right before dissolving completely. Swirls of vinyl-coated lace, gold braid and shredded knits adorned Bora’s frothy frocks like melted wax; sequins decorated curved panels of zebra-printed lace and fishnet. The entire effect had a kind of “jockstar” glam. Padded and puffed leg-of-mutton sleeves, peplumed corsets and boy-meets-girl bowties added more playful flourish. At times, the parade of elaborate pastiches was hard to digest — almost like eating too much candy — but some of the more balanced looks recalled Rodarte or McQueen at their best, and a skillful accessibility prevailed with plenty of wearable separates scattered throughout.
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