Bibhu Mohapatra

New York: Bibhu Mohapatra hooked his upscale, glam aesthetic on the Surrealist portraits of Man Ray this season. Fashion plates from his 20s and 30s portfolio, in particular, were a natural fit for Mohapatra’s core base of evening dresses and fur coats, influencing the sinuous yet relaxed movement of gowns and dramatic volumes in the outerwear. Most importantly, those haunting images gave the collection some bite, from the grayscale palette of solarized photographs to the painted-doll faces. It all had the look of deranged Old Hollywood (the tame counterpart to Galliano’s ladies at Oscar de la Renta last night), or perhaps the harlequin patterns throughout the collection provided some clue. Send in the clowns.Nivara Xaykao

Silhouette: Long and lean / 30s bias cut

Color: Cadet blue / Black-and-white / Goldenrod / Lilac blush / Orchid / Midnight blue / Pewter

Key Items: Evening pencil skirt / Slashed-sleeve blouse / Mink coat / Flapper dress / Fur bolero / 30s mermaid gown

Materials: Beaver fur / Duchesse satin / Grain leather / Chiffon / Charmeuse / Tulle / Panne velvet

Print + Pattern: Blown-up fishnet / Remixed harlequin

Details + Trim: Flounces / Illusion necklines / Scattered sequins / Rhinestones / Ostrich-trimmed hems

Accessories + Footwear: Fur scarf / Cloche hat / Sculptural platforms


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