Jan 28, 2019 | By Nigel Taylor
Novel color combinations, new textures and innovative lasts were the focus of most designers fr the F/W 12 season. Stylesight takes a closer look at the top 5 footwear collections from Milan Fashion Week.
Single soles arrive in Milan runways, but not without a twist. Molded platforms and heel details contoured round toe, cone heel lasts of a range composed of mostly ankle boots. Lace-up and button-up silhouetted made an impact in a patchworked upper that mized hair calf, nappa and suede.
Opting for heavier silhouettes, the Prada F/W 12 selection proposed the flared heel balance against overlasted platforms on welted outsoles. The floral embossed + print motif from the Men’s collection were carried over along with a trompe l’oeil high-heeled galosh, and hand-crafted embellishments create evening items over satin uppers.
A little more restrained than usual, Marni’s offerings still had the usual must-have appeal. Platform Mary Janes featured electro-plated golden heels with supple velvet. Cap toe details were strong in another gold and neutral snake combo. Banana heels featured hand-carved details, but the surprise of the day was the return of the flatform, which Ms. Castiglioni proposes in a closed toe last with Mary Jane detail.
A beautiful and complimentary balance to Raf Simons’ last collection. Pieced uppers evoked futuristic inspirations – contrary to the feminine a subtle lines of the apparel portion. Metallics were contrasted against optic whites, salmon hues and stark black, creating a variety of contemporary color blocking on sandal and pump lasts.
With nature as a starting point, Missoni’s influence were clearly seen in eye-catching interpretations of organic textures. Thick heels were molded and paired with pointed toe single sole lasts, and embroideries brought to a life the brand’s DNA in golden threads and asymmetrical studs. – Jenn Tello
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